January 8. We anchored in the harbor of Grytviken, a former whaling station, at 6:30 am. We were second to depart on the zodiacs after having our boots and pants checked for alien material by 2 separate government representatives. At an early afternoon briefing we learned our ship scored 100% on the inspection while another Silversea ship failed on 2 earlier visits this season. Failing means no one can go ashore. Onshore amid the rusted remains of the large whaling station were hundreds of fur seals including pups of various ages, a few elephant seals and a number of king penguins. We walked to the small cemetery where a sailor from New London CT, David’s home state, is buried alongside Ernest Shackleton. Ship expedition staff, stationed around the area, sometimes had to encourage aggressive male fur seals to move off the paths.
Flexibility is a good word to describe expedition cruising. Our afternoon landing was changed to 1-hour zodiac tour of Fortuna Bay because the swell at shore made it too difficult for the zodiacs to land. David went on the trip along the rocky shore that was covered with fur seals and a few elephant seals. You could see big bull seals defend their section of the beach from horny young males. A large colony of King penguins live on this bay with some seen on the beach today.
The ship will reposition tonight for a landing tomorrow at Salisbury Plain, where at least 100,000 King penguins gather at this time of year with their chicks. 🐧
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