Grytviken and Fortuna Bay, South Georgia Island

January 8. We anchored in the harbor of Grytviken, a former whaling station, at 6:30 am. We were second to depart on the zodiacs after having our boots and pants checked for alien material by 2 separate government representatives. At an early afternoon briefing we learned our ship scored 100% on the inspection while another Silversea ship failed on 2 earlier visits this season. Failing means no one can go ashore. Onshore amid the rusted remains of the large whaling station were hundreds of fur seals including pups of various ages, a few elephant seals and a number of king penguins. We walked to the small cemetery where a sailor from New London CT, David’s home state, is buried alongside Ernest Shackleton. Ship expedition staff, stationed around the area, sometimes had to encourage aggressive male fur seals to move off the paths.

Flexibility is a good word to describe expedition cruising. Our afternoon landing was changed to 1-hour zodiac tour of Fortuna Bay because the swell at shore made it too difficult for the zodiacs to land. David went on the trip along the rocky shore that was covered with fur seals and a few elephant seals. You could see big bull seals defend their section of the beach from horny young males. A large colony of King penguins live on this bay with some seen on the beach today.

The ship will reposition tonight for a landing tomorrow at Salisbury Plain, where at least 100,000 King penguins gather at this time of year with their chicks. 🐧

Approaching South Georgia Island

January 7. Today things got serious. Third day of three sea days. To land at South Georgia and Antarctica we are required to comply with extremely stringent requirements. Mandatory briefings (attendance taken), outer clothing inspected for any minuscule seeds, grasses, etc., and signing a document that each person is responsible for cleaning clothing and boots after each landing. All guests’ outer clothing will be inspected by a South Georgia official tomorrow. If any alien material is found, no one will be allowed to go ashore 😬. Picture is of the inspection process where teeny pieces of grass were picked out of Dave’s rain pants and gloves and hats were vacuumed. Thank you to Harry Pettigrew and Jim and Lee Stehlik for loaned gear.

After watching a variety of albatrosses and petrels near the ship for the past days, today we saw humpback whales. The Captain slowed the ship to get a closer look. Lectures today were on whales and Shackleton. A second mandatory briefing was held late today to review plans for 2 landings tomorrow (Grytviken, former whaling station and Fortuna Bay, King Penguin colony) and Zodiac orientation. Grytviken will be a good first landing as it is relatively flat with no snow or ice. 🐧

Sailing the South Atlantic

It is January 6, and we are in the second day of the three-day crossing to South Georgia Island with another day of good weather and calm seas (not a lake but no problem for the Cloud). Today’s events were three lectures and a requirement to bring our rented boots to the boot room to be inspected and stowed. A major effort exists to prevent alien materials, like dirt and seeds, from being introduced  into the fragile environment of South Georgia Island. From 2011 to 2015 South Georgia imported 300 tons of special rat poison from Wisconsin to eradicate the rat population introduced by Captain Cook in 1774. All rats were eradicated by verification of rat sniffing dogs in 2018.

Two types of albatrosses were spotted from the ship today, wandering albatross and black browed. At a lecture from one of the two onboard ornithologists, we learned about the species of penguins we will be meeting. 🐧

Greetings from the End of the Western Hemisphere

We spent January 4 getting from Santiago to Ushuaia, Argentina. Flew on an all economy charter flight where we had the last 2 seats, really! Survived the 3 1/2 flight with a small snack and not much water because using the bathroom was difficult! Arrived safely in Ushuaia, which is truly the bottom of the Western Hemisphere. We were taken by bus up a long valley to a local restaurant for lamb barbecue, and where a large sled dog breeding and training center shared the location. Left hotel at 7:15 am and finally arrived at the Silver Cloud at 5 pm. Rest of the day was a whirlwind of unpacking, going to muster drill, meeting the 26-member expedition staff, and dinner in the main dining room.

January 5, today, is our first day at sea on the 1,100 nautical mile trip to South Georgia Island. Before daily lectures begin, we have been on deck bird watching, giant petrels and wandering albatrosses. Sunny with calm seas.

We will try to post a couple of pictures a day, not sure that will be possible. If not, we will keep writing and illustrate with pictures when we get home. 🐧

Pictures are of the barbecue and sailing in the Beagle Channel.

Vina del Mar and Valparaíso, Chile

   January 3. We traveled northwest to the Pacific coast to see the resort town of Vina del Mar. A combination of beaches and rocky coast, this area has many high rise condos occupied during the summer season. The larger town south of Vina del Mar is Valparaíso, capitol of the region and a major Chilean port. Discovered in 1544, Valparaiso is built on 44 hills with no parks but 33 squares. We would call much of the city “funky” or like Haight Asbury in the 60’s. Our lunch was eaten at a very nice restaurant on Concepcion Hill. Dave enjoyed a Pisco Sour. Pisco is a strong liquor made from fermented grapes. It tasted a little like a saltless Margarita. We walked among some of the colorful narrow streets. Valparaíso is a city of 500,000 people and 400,000 dogs—you have to be careful where you step 😊. While traveling today we saw lots of evidence of the forest fires that occurred on Christmas day. We have enjoyed our time in Chile and fly early tomorrow to Ushuaia, Argentina to meet our ship for the expedition to Antarctica. 🐧

Casablanca Valley, Chile

  Our guide, Esteban, drove us about an hour east of Santiago to the Casablanca Valley. For the entire day we were blessed with beautiful weather, Carolina blue skies, low humidity, light breeze from the Pacific. Jan loved it! The ride there made it clear how severe drought is in Chile, one heavy rainstorm in the last 5 months.
   The Emiliana Vineyards is the world’s largest producer of organic wines, 13 million bottles/year. Our guide, who grew up in Connecticut, explained the techniques used to control pests and fertilize the vines, using all natural methods—chickens, alpacas, bees, special plants, etc.

   The second winery we visited, Casas del Bosque, produces wine on a smaller scale, about a million  bottles/year. We enjoyed a delicious wine pairing lunch on the patio and then a tour of the winery.

Adventure Begins

January 1. Santiago, Chile.

 

We arrive safely and sit in the lobby of our hotel, Mandarin Oriental. No one seemed to know when our room would be ready. Luckily, we slept on the plane, and I used the spa to shower and change clothes. Lobby is nice, and we are being fed. We talk with fellow cruise ship passengers. Checked into room. Jan took a nap, and Dave went to the pool and listened to part of the Furman basketball game. Tomorrow we have a full day tour to the Casablanca wine region known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.🐧